As we say, don’t judge the book by its cover, likewise don’t judge a country by its name. Just like Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan sounds like a very traditional place and possibly not a conducive one for a woman traveler. While questioned back home about the choice of destination , we were in for quite a surprise!

Post our week long trip to Uzbekistan, we stopped over for a couple of days at Almaty as the countries share borders. Almaty is the erstwhile capital of Kazakhstan and kind of still its financial and cultural center. It gets its name from Alma (Apples) Ata (Land) and literally means the land of apples. Coming from a country with a strong heritage dating back to several centuries ago, the newness of Almaty struck us as soon as we landed. Kazakhstan gained independence from Russia in 1993 and its strive to establish itself as an independent young country was apparent.

Well first let me tell you why Almaty is on most Indian traveler’s bucket list these days. You guessed it right, its visa free for Indian passports. However, the amount of scrutiny my passport went through at immigration at the Almaty airport made me feel like they were just short of peeling off the pages any moment.

As we stepped out of the airport and moved towards our hotel, the city looked vibrant and like any other modern city. For that matter I hardly saw any heritage buildings there. Everything seemed newly constructed. We were booked at the Salut Hotel which I will absolutely not recommend. You can read my reasons in my review here. I was aghast as to why the hotel would get such good ratings despite others also having similar experience as us and soon realized that it was all about the cost. Apparently, hotels in Almaty are very expensive so it was just the cost that was getting it good reviews even though it was a miserable experience to stay there. After all, Almaty is ranked as the most expensive city in Central Asia.

Anyways, beyond the shock of the hotel, the weather was amazing and a very pleasant respite after the soaring temperatures of Uzbekistan in the month of June.

Almaty does not boast of a lot of must-sees. There are parks and squares and primarily the mountains surrounding the city that add to its charms. The one thing that stood out was the omni present fountains practically everywhere we went and that added to the sense of wellbeing there. We did quite a bit in the city in the 2 days we spent there and here are my recommendations based on experiences there:

  • First President’s Park:

The park is named in honour of Kazakhstan’s inaugural leader, Nursultan Nazarbayev. Opened to the public in November 2011, this serene park nestled against a backdrop of picturesque mountains spans approximately 1.5 kilometres. Lined with verdant trees and vibrant flower beds, the park offers a tranquil escape in the heart of the city.

Entry to the park is free, making it an accessible destination for all. However, visitors should note that there are no shops or restroom facilities on site, so it’s advisable to bring along refreshments and essentials for your visit.

The park’s centerpiece is a magnificent multi-stage fountain and they have a music and light show during the evening hours which we missed. The park is a delightful spot to take a leisurely stroll or enjoy a family outing, although there are limited attractions beyond the fountain itself.

  • 28 Panfilov Guardsmen Park:

This park pays tribute to the heroic Panfilov Guardsmen, a group of 28 soldiers from the Alma-Ata Infantry unit who bravely defended Moscow during World War II against the German invasion. Named after General Ivan Panfilov, who led the 316th division, these soldiers, despite heavy losses, valiantly held their ground, significantly delaying the German advance towards Moscow and bolstering the city’s defense efforts. At the heart of the park stands a towering black monument depicting soldiers from all 15 Soviet Republics, alongside an eternal flame that solemnly honors the fallen heroes of the Second World War and the Eastern Front. The 28 Panfilov Guardsmen Park is not just a historical landmark but also a serene green space. As a visitor it offered us a moment to reflect on the sacrifices made by the soldiers and. It provided us a poignant glimpse into Kazakhstan’s wartime history and is a place of remembrance and reverence.

  • Zenkov Cathedral:  

Also known as the Ascension Cathedral, is a striking architectural marvel located within the greenery of Panfilov Park. Named after its architect, the cathedral’s vibrant colour sets it apart as a notable landmark.

From its construction until 1994, Zenkov Cathedral served as the Central Museum of Kazakhstan. However, in 1995, local authorities restored its religious significance, and since then, Orthodox services have resumed within its sacred walls.

After 6 p.m., the cathedral is closed to visitors to our disappointment, but its surroundings remain lively. The area outside the cathedral is popular for picnics, featuring horse carriage rides, food kiosks, and activities for children. Visitors can also find washrooms nearby which was a respite, albeit at a nominal fee.

  • Republic Square:

Also known as The New Square, this is the principal central square of Almaty, serving as a venue for public events. Among its notable landmarks are the former Presidential Palace, now used as municipal offices, alongside the Akimat House, the Monument of Independence, and the Central State Museum.

Established in 1980 to accommodate the city’s growing population and its need for larger spaces during festivals and other events, Republic Square has since become a focal point for celebrations, mass parades, rallies, and festivals. The area is adorned with lush greenery and fountains, enhancing its beauty and appeal.

The square’s centrepiece is the Golden Warrior Monument, which symbolizes Kazakhstan’s independence, the cultural identity of its people, and Almaty’s role as the capital until 1997. Inspired by Kazakh folklore and the archaeological discovery in 1969 of the “Golden Man,” a noble from the 2nd or 3rd century BC buried in ornate gold armor, the monument stands as a testament to the nation’s rich history. However, I was more intrigued by the statues of the Kazakh man and woman sitting in different poses. I couldn’t find much background on the context of those statues.

Apart from these statues there  is no other activity here so it’s a place for a short visit unless there is an event happening here.

  • Abai Square:

This square pays homage to the renowned Kazakh poet and educator Abai Qunanbaiuly, whose monument graces its center. This bustling square boasts a public garden adorned with elegant granite fountains. Positioned prominently in front of the Palace of the Republic, it neighbors the iconic Hotel Kazakhstan, recognizable by its distinctive crown-shaped rooftop.

Abai Square serves as a vibrant hub for public gatherings, ceremonies, and concerts, often bustling with activity. During our visit, preparations for a concert were underway, highlighting its role as a cultural epicenter. In contrast to Republic Square, Abai Square is bustling with several shops, making it a more popular destination. One of the highlights was enjoying delicious ice cream from a shop managed single-handedly by a young woman, adding a personal touch to our experience.

  • Shymbulak Mountain Resort

Shymbulak stands as the largest ski resort in Central Asia, nestled in the upper reaches of the Medeu Valley within the Zailiisky Alatau mountain range. Located approximately 25 kilometres (16 mi) south of Almaty, this resort offers an exhilarating experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

A highlight of our journey, Shymbulak features gondola rides that traverse up to three levels, culminating at about 3,200 metres (10,500 ft) above sea level. One can also do a trek if they want to. You can stop at each level for a break. Level 1 is where all the restaurants and activities happen as most people go up to level 1 only. Level 2 has a nice deck for offering a great view for pictures. There was a café here which was not functional when we went there. Here is a glimpse of what to expect at Level 2.

However, the best part was yet to come at level 3. This vantage point provides breathtaking views and serves as the pinnacle of the ski resort’s offerings. The combo ticket for going to all the three levels was for 6500 Kazakh Tenge per head. I would recommend indulging in the drone photography there. It’s an experience worth cherishing and capturing for memories. Check out my reel below.

You need to plan at least half a day to go to Shymbulak. There are ample restaurants there for lunch. We tried the Dadli restaurant and enjoyed the ambience and what we ate. Read my review here.

  • Arbat Street:

Also known as Zhybek Zholy Street, this is Almaty’s bustling shopping thoroughfare. It was primarily a pedestrian only street. As we strolled along, we encountered a diverse array of shopping opportunities. From well-known brands to charming boutique shops, the street had something for all tastes. While souvenir shops are not prevalent along the street itself, a nearby shopping mall with a prominent UVM board on its rooftop houses a collection of souvenir shops on its first floor. Adjacent to the mall, an intriguing showroom specializes in earrings, offering a captivating display of its extensive inventory.  

There were a variety of cafes and restaurants offering everything from fine dining to local cuisine. Whether you’re seeking a quick bite or a leisurely meal, you’ll find plenty of options to satisfy your cravings. Surprisingly we were able to find a pure vegetarian restaurant called Amrita here which was a delight. However, you need to plan to be here for longer and not for a quick bite. Read my detailed review for Amrita café here. An unusual shop we found was the Sinichki store about 650 metres from Arbat Street that had some quirky souvenirs which were not found in the typical souvenir shops.

Arbat Street is further adorned with fountains and lively sculptures, creating a picturesque ambiance. Local artists had displayed their masterpieces on the street in the evening. To add to the vibrant atmosphere, the street musicians, enhanced the lively spirit of Arbat.

The Mooz Café is an easy landmark to remember where to get your taxi should you lose your way in the bustling street. It was a casual café and good for a quick bite while you wait. The doner kebabs at Ecokebabs were delicious and would highly recommend trying out the place. It’s a small joint so don’t expect any fanfare, but the kebabs were amazing. It’s right next to a departmental store where you can pick up all sorts of essentials and food items.

Everything in Almaty seemed new and had a very “I felt like it, so I did it” vibe. It’s not a cultural hub nor does it boast of a rich heritage. It’s a new nation, modern, trying to create an identity of its own and very different from the perception created by its traditional name.  A good place to relax and chill out and good to combine with other bordering destinations.

Things to keep in mind while visiting Almaty:

  • English is barely spoken here and practically everyone only speaks Russian or the Kazakh language, so you need to have Google Translate handy which requires an internet connection even when you are on the go.
  • Credit Cards are accepted in several places, so you don’t need to have too much cash. ATMs were available in malls and shopping places. I didn’t see any at Shymbulak so do carry some cash just in case. You can pay for the tickets and at the restaurants with your credit card though.
  • Washrooms are mostly paid ones so keep some loose change.
  • Yandex is the app used for calling cabs. They wait for 10 minutes post which there are waiting charges applicable.
  • GPS does not work well including in the Yandex app for cabs so finding the pick and drop areas could be confusing.